The Passionate Hiker: The RideauTrail: Port Elmsley (11D) to Smiths Falls Dam (12C)

Sat. 26 July: The Rideau Trail:

Port Elmsley (11D) to Smiths Falls Dam (12C)

Smiths Falls: Rideau Canal Lock Master

According to the map, this section of trail appeared to involve a lot of road walking, including the streets of the largest town between Kingston and Ottawa. How could this offer any enjoyment to the hiker?

This turned out to be the most interesting day so far on the trail. This section took me from the village of Port Elmsley into Smiths Falls. When I wasn’t enjoying the challenge of finding the next red arrow in the dense bush, I was admiring views across the waters of the Rideau River, photographing Highland cattle and a sleepy squirrel, and then later admiring the workings of the Rideau Canal locks on a busy section of the canal through the town. There was always something to keep me busy, in addition to the long walk itself.

At Port Elmsley, the Tay River widens out as it joins Lower Rideau Lake, giving good opportunities for the photographer standing beside the busy highway. Very soon the trail headed out into the fields and the woods, away from any roads. It was a little tricky now and then staying on course as the trail threaded through the woodlands and the bush, the tall grasses and the trees giving little sign of the path underfoot. There were several stiles to cross, each well marked with red arrows, giving assurance that I wasn’t lost.

Finally the trail emerged from the trees into a farmer’s field and onto a gravel road. The farmer was busy at work on his tractor as I passed through the gate onto the road. This was the Poonamalie Side Road, straight as an arrow for three kilometres – but never dull. Farms and homes bordered the lane. At one point, an arm of the Rideau River came right up to the reeds beside the road. Here was a small private mooring. Far out across the grasses and water I could see boats moving along the canal. Further along the road I passed a sleepy squirrel sitting on a fence, and some Highland cattle watching me with interest as I walked past. Some horses were grazing in the field opposite.

At the end of Poonamalie Side Road I turned onto busy Highway 43, which I followed into Smiths Falls. Across the road was a large cemetery. I wandered along the edge of the newly cut grass to admire the many impressive gravestones and monoliths. Once in town, I walked down quiet residential streets to the river and canal.

I wandered beside the river on a pleasant path through a park with colorful flowers and fountains. A large swimming area had been made beside the river, empty this early in the day, but probably popular on hot summer days. Expensive boats were moored across the river, with boats arriving from the east through the locks. Here the Rideau River passed over a weir on its way through town. The large, modern Combined Lock, built in 1974, dropped the canal by twenty six feet to the river below. Parallel to this huge lock were the original canal locks, now abandoned and filled with large plant pots to form a pretty water garden.

I was in no hurry. There was plenty to see. Boats were moving through the canal, the Combined Lock was emptying a small boat into the river below, and there were people strolling past, enjoying the scene. Eventually I continued downstream, beside the wide river/canal, on a riverside pathway. I passed through green parks, until I came to my car, parked in a large convenient parking area above Smiths Falls dam in Long Reach Park.

Not having had enough of canals for one day, I wandered down to the locks at Old Sly’s Road, where I enjoyed watching two expensive boats, one from Quebec, being hoisted up through the two locks and through a rotating bridge, into the river above, on their way to Smiths Falls. The lock-keepers, young people on a summer job, managed by a more experienced lock-keeper, cranked handles to open and close the gates, while the boaters kept their craft away from the sides of the locks with long poles and ropes.

I was impressed with Smiths Falls waterfront. An abandoned hotel sits in prime position below the Combined Lock. It would be a beautiful place to live, and I hope that someone with imagination will redevelop it one day.

Today’s trip gave me a good taste of the Rideau Canal itself; a perfect combination of hiking trail and canal path. There will be plenty more opportunities to enjoy the Canal as I continue to explore the Rideau Trail.

Statistics:

Total Distance: 11.8 km (hike)

Height Gain: Negligible

Time on Trail: 3 hrs. 45 mins.

Start Port Elmsley (11D): 8.24 am

P’malie Rd (11E): 9.33 am

Jn. Hwy. 43 (12A): 10.13 am

Smiths Falls Lock (12B): 11.11 am

Smiths Falls Dam (12C): 12.09 pm

Temp: +18C to +21C

Weather: Sun, cloud, warm

Rideau Trail % Completed to Date = 17.4% (=57.5/330.4 km)