The passionate hiker

The passionate hiker
Early days in the outdoors

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Day Tripper


Sat. 28 July:  Day Tripper


Head out to Banff National Park on any weekend in summer, and expect to share your trails with an international crowd.  So it was today.  And one such international visitor was my cousin PT from Leeds in Yorkshire.

Our day evolved, rather than being planned.  We started off by visiting the immensely popular Johnston Canyon, being very fortunate to get a perfect parking space in a very busy car park.  Just across the bridge, over the swirling waters of Johnston Creek, there’s a lovely old-fashioned café and gift store.  We sat out on the verandah enjoying a hot chocolate, and swatting away the pesky mosquitoes.  Of course, there was a constant procession of tourists making their way up the often narrow trail, as we strolled up the canyon.  The path is often dramatic, clinging to the cliff-face suspended above the fast-flowing waters below.  People were swarming around the base of the lower falls, waiting for their turn to creep through the narrow tunnel for a front-row view of the falls, and receiving a soaking at the same time.  We did it too, and were awed by the volume of water thundering down into the pool at the foot of the falls.

The crowds thinned out a little as we continued up the path to the end of the tourist trail. Here, a spectacular platform juts out into the chasm, with a perfect view of the much more spectacular upper falls.  I think P wanted to hike all the way to the Inkpots but I wasn’t really prepared for a proper hike, and so we returned down the increasingly busy path back to the car.  People were stopping to admire the chipmunks, and we held up a few people as P conversed with a lady about her dog and what she feeds it!

We decided to continue along the relatively peaceful Highway 1A westwards, stopping at a nice picnic area above the Bow River.  Here a helpful young National Park guide told us about bears and what they like to eat.  As we sat there eating our lunch, she showed us photos of bear poop which seemed to consist mostly of berries.  We were hungry enough not to be too put off.  Further along the road, we stopped at the classic viewpoint for the Canadian Pacific railway.  At out previous stop we had seen a couple of long freight trains pass below us.  Nearby were a couple of huge elk stags grazing beside the road, and being photographed by the tourist paparazzi.


Statistics
Johnston Canyon
Sat. 28 July

Total Dist.

 5.4 km (hike)

Height Gain

    410 ft.

Max. Elev.

 5,135 ft.

Time

2 hrs. 46 mins.




Other Stats.

Start hike:    10.40 am
Upper Falls: 12.22 pm
Ret. to start:   1.26 pm

Sun, cloud.  Warm.


If there is any place busier than Johnston Canyon, it is Lake Louise.  Cars were parked for a good kilometre beside the road leading up to the lake.  Again by good fortune we found an ideal parking spot in the upper parking area.  Down by the lake there were serious crowds.  A slightly harassed Mountie, in red tunic and Mountie hat, was standing among the crowds, having his photo taken with excited tourists from around the world.  Talk about a classic Canadian scene!

P and I wandered into the Chateau Lake Louise hotel to admire the superb views of lake and mountains and glaciers from the windows of the lobby.  P was keen to stroll along the popular lakeside trail.  So we headed out and eventually found ourselves at the far end of the lake, heading up the trail towards the Mt. Victoria glacier.  I had to suggest that it might be time to turn around! 

Being early evening the crowds were finally starting to subside, and on our return walk it was a lot more peaceful.  People were out on the lake in canoes, and judging by the yelling and the singing, everyone was having a great time out there.  Several climbers were up on the cliff faces beside the trail.  The magic of Lake Louise is known around the world, so we were happy to share some of this magic with the crowds around us.  By now the sun was breaking through, and the reflections in the lake were intriguing.  In the hotel there is a very nice deli, and we stopped for a bite to eat alongside a pair of Japanese women, one of whom lives in Calgary.

There were still plenty of vehicles in the car parks at 7 pm as we headed out and down to the Trans-Canada Highway.  On the way we drove up to the old-fashioned Lake Louise railway station to watch a train coming by - which we had hoped was the Rocky Mountaineer passenger train.  Instead it was a freight train headed east.  We stopped at the handy café beside the highway in Canmore for a meal.  By the time we reached the city, the light was fading.  It had been a long, enjoyable day trip in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Now if I can be as active as my cousin is when I am 75, I will be pleased enough.




Statistics
Lake Louise lakeside
Sat. 28 July

Total Dist.

 5.0 km (hike)

Height Gain

      30 ft.

Max. Elev.

 5,770 ft.

Time

2 hrs. 15 mins.




Other Stats.

Start hike:      4.53 pm
Far end:         6.07 pm
Ret. to car:     7.08 pm

Temp: +16 C
Clouds breaking up, evening sunshine.  Warm.


Friday, July 27, 2012

Missinglink


Fri. 27 July:  Missinglink


This was a good test of my route-finding skills. For such a gentle foothill, it posed several challenges.  I passed with flying colors. 

It’s hard to find new areas of the Elbow and Sheep Valleys to explore.  Thanks to the new edition of the Kananaskis Trail Guide, just published (Vol. 4 – Sheep/Gorge Creek) I noticed a possible circuit by foot and bike, linking Gorge Creek with the Sheep River road at Bighorn viewpoint, via Missinglink Mountain.  I was surprised to learn that this forested foothill actually has a stunning viewpoint on its western edge, and so I was keen to check it out.

After work on the Thursday I headed out of the city to camp at Sandy McNabb campsite.  Expecting it to be fairly quiet, I was a little surprised to find the large campsite almost full.  So I continued up the valley to the Bluerock campsite.  Although the main camping area was also full, there was, for some strange reason, a section which was almost deserted.  I set up camp on a perfect spot of ground.  Just one other trailer arrived in this leg of the campsite, and so it was peaceful and undisturbed.  I fell quickly asleep to the gentle sound of the Sheep River running through the trees down below.

By just after 7 a.m. the following morning, I had struck camp and was driving the few kilometres east back up the valley to the Gorge Creek road.  This road ends at a gate after just a few kilometres.  Here at the trailhead for Mt. Ware, and other grand hikes, I hid my bike in the trees.  High above me to the east I could see the summit ridge of Missinglink Mountain, and I would be dropping down from there to pick up my bike for the return leg (if I could figure out the route!).

In the parking lot, I was surprised to see a mound of snow.  Surely it had melted weeks ago?  A second look showed me that this was a big pile of hail.  There must have been a gigantic hailstorm up here the previous day, to have left this evidence behind.  I was relieved that I had not been out there in such an onslaught.

Driving back down the Gorge Creek road I turned east onto the Sheep Valley road, parking at Bighorn viewpoint.  My hiking route took a direct line northwards up onto the lower slopes of Missinglink Mountain.  The grass was wet with dew, and my boots and my hiking pants were soon soaking.  But very quickly I was up onto beautiful grassy slopes, with immediately great views westwards to the head of the Sheep River valley, and the Front Ranges.

I climbed the slopes to a rounded tree-lined ridge, then turned northwest to follow the ridge top.  There was no obvious trail, except for a few short sections.  But the general route was obvious.  The trail stayed mostly in the trees, with a few open sections giving views to the valley below.  I was on the look-out for a path dropping gradually off the ridge, and by good fortune, or keen observation, I saw a faint trail which I followed.  It was not easy to see, and a couple of times I lost it, but regained it as it tracked gradually downwards along the side of the forested ridge.  Eventually it crossed a tiny stream and disappeared altogether. 

Pulling out my map, I tried to figure out which direction to take from here.  I made a line up the hillside through the open forest, and continued to keep to the highest section of a wide hillside with only an occasional view through the trees to guide me.  I continued on up the rising ground for what seemed to be several kilometres.  Just when I was convincing myself that I was lost, I saw ahead the dramatic end to the trees and a large inukshuk perched on a clifftop directly in front of me.  I had hit the summit of Missinglink Mountain head on.

I popped out of the trees onto an open clifftop, from where I had grand views westwards to the mountain wall.  Directly below me was the trailhead and (I hoped) my stashed bike.  There were heavy clouds building to the north, but still plenty of sunshine overhead.  It looked to me as if thunderstorms were very likely that afternoon.

My descent was steep.  Again, I found the right route by good judgment and by lining up a distant cutline with the terrain directly below me.  The trail became more obvious as I dropped down off the mountain, in thick forest.  Lower down, the trail was soaking wet, but finally I came out onto the Gorge Creek road just a stone’s throw from the closed gate and my hidden bike.  I had navigated very well – if I say so myself.  I’m sure that some people would struggle a little on this route, although with common sense  the average hiker would not have too much difficulty.

The bike ride back down the Gorge Creek road and along the Sheep Valley was swift and enjoyable.  All too soon I was back at the car.  I had avoided missing any links on this enjoyable route across the foothills and back.   This route could do with some occasional blazing to show the way – but then maybe not too many people come this way, and perhaps that’s not such a bad thing.  Best to keep this as a nice little test of the hiker’s art.


Statistics
Missinglink Mountain
Fri. 27 July

Total Dist.

 6.4 km (hike) +
 6.3 km (bike) =
12.7 km

Height Gain

 1,530 ft.

Max. Elev.

 6,380 ft.

Time

3 hrs. 27 mins.




Other Stats.

Start hike:      7.51 am
Summit:         9.49 am
Start bike:    10.51 am
Ret. to car:   11.18 am

Temp: +11 C to +21 C

Cloudless => building clouds.  Warm.



Saturday, July 21, 2012

Forty-Eight Hours in the Rockies


Fri./Sat./Sun 20-22 July:  Forty-Eight Hours in the Rockies


If you only had forty eight hours to enjoy the Canadian Rockies, what would you do?  How about this:  go camping by a spectacular lake and bike along the water’s edge, the mountains reflecting in the blue waters.  Then scramble up a knife-edged ridge to well over 8,000 ft. above sea level, up into the alpine zone.  Next, canoe across a wide, windless lake, beneath the sea of peaks, with beavers swimming around you.  Finally take a gondola ride to a summit viewpoint and picnic high on the mountainside with amazing views to the valleys far below.  I did all this, and more, all in a period of less than two days.

Friday


Having dropped my cousin P off at the city bus station for his long journey to Swift Current Saskatchewan, I headed west for the mountains.  By early afternoon I had settled into the most perfect campsite at Spray Lakes West.  My site sat in the trees above the lake, which lies in a mountain valley.  The lake stretches almost fifteen kilometres in length and over one and a half kilometers across. 

Just as I had completed setting up my tent and a protective tarpaulin above it, there was a huge crash of thunder.  A few minutes later, the rain was bucketing down, while I sat safely in my car reading the London Daily Telegraph (care of my cousin).  For a few minutes it was wild.  I found out later that at that very moment, a huge mudslide had cascaded across the Trans-Canada Highway just west of Banff, trapping tourists and blocking the busy traffic for several hours.  I knew nothing of this at the time. 

In a short while the rain stopped, and I set off on an exploration by bike along the old access road which follows the edge of the lake.  This rough road was once open to traffic, but is now gated.  As a result, I had the entire west side of the lake to myself – almost.

It’s a very pretty ten kilometre bike ride, below towering cliffs, through the trees, past old campsites, across open sections of lakeside, always with stunning views of the mountains all around.  Magically the skies cleared ahead of me.  The water turned dark blue, and the mountains reflected almost perfectly on the lake. 

A single biker passed me, and further on, a lone girl with a heavy pack was hiking into the back-country.  The road crosses a dam, from where a valley heads away into the Assiniboine wilderness.  From this vantage point, I could see down the lake to my next adventure, Tent Ridge, reflecting perfectly in the lake, and looking a little intimidating.  Less than twenty hours later, I would be standing up there at over eight thousand feet, looking back at my lakeside viewpoint far below.

Back at the campsite I enjoyed some tinned salmon, started a fire, and began to read my Dalesman magazine (another gift from my Yorkshire cousin) when another loud peal of thunder echoed around the peaks.  Soon the next thunderstorm started to roll in, so I ducked into the tent and enjoyed the crazy flashes and bangs above my head - which seemed to last most of the night – not that I stayed awake very long.



Statistics
Spray Lakes westside road
Fri. 20 July

Total Dist.

21.0 km (bike)

Height Gain

     60 ft.

Max. Elev.

 5,660 ft.

Time

2 hrs. 59 mins.




Other Stats.

Start bike:      4.01 pm
Dam:             5.28 pm
Campsite:      7.00 am


Temp: +19 C

Clouds clearing, blue skies, warm.

Saturday


It was still raining the following morning at 6 a.m. and I was beginning to doubt the forecast of fine weather.  But the rain stopped, and I enjoyed a bowl of porridge before striking camp and driving south down the Smith-Dorrien road towards the trailhead on the Mt. Engadine Lodge road.  Within just a couple of minutes, my hiking colleagues J and R were pulling into the parking area, having driven out from Calgary.

Our goal today was to complete the full Tent Ridge Horseshoe circuit.  J and I had been beaten back by icy storms two years ago when halfway round, and so we had vowed to return. 

Another sunny forecast didn’t fool us. Up on this high ridge, at over 8,000 feet, the weather seems to have a mind of its own.  Climbing up into the heart of the horseshoe, below the curving ridgeline, we stopped to put on our rain jackets.  A misty rain was starting to fall.  At this point, we felt that our chances of completing the circuit were no better than 50-50. But we continued on up through the trees onto the bare ridge. 

One band of snow proved to be no obstacle.  The light drizzle had stopped, and although the wind was picking up, the ridge top was clear.  Behind, along the mountain ranges to the west, the peaks were hidden by the cloud.  Our hopes lifted, as we gradually climbed the steep rocky ridgeline towards the first summit.  By the time we reached the red repeater station the wind was howling.  We were glad of some protection from the gale.  Soon we were joined by three girls and two dogs, who had been making good progress behind us.  They were keen for us to act as official photographers for their party, and we were glad to oblige.

We dropped down to the col where, on our previous attempt, J and I took the steep escape route down through the trees to Tryst Lake.  This time we turned up the slope for the ascent of the central peak of Tent Ridge.  The summit, at 8,380 feet, commands a spectacular view of crazy mountain peaks, bands of snow, and the Spray Lakes spread out along its valley far below.  Here at the centre of the horseshoe one has the best view of Tent Ridge and its perfectly shaped glacial valley stretching away from the summit.  Here were some great photo opportunities for foolhardy hikers such as this author.

The second half of the horseshoe started with a descent off the summit along the edge of a spectacular vertical cliff.  After this, the ridge became flatter and less rocky – a pleasant stroll even in a strong wind.   A full gale might be a different proposition as there would be no happy landing if one was blown off the ridge.  Near the far end of the ridge we found a small triple ski sled sitting on the upper slopes.  This must have been someone’s idea of an extreme joke – for only a madman would propel himself off the ridge while sitting on that device, hoping to steer by its tiny steering wheel.  We looked around the bare slopes half expecting to find a hidden camera – perhaps a student prank?

As we sat high on the final peak of this horseshoe, we watched our earlier hiking colleagues descend to the forested valley far below, as we tried to memorize their route.  When we dropped down off the ridge, we soon picked up a good trail, and from that point we were in no danger of getting lost.  We headed down a draw.  Today’s educational portion of our adventure was brought to us by the Oxford Dictionary, and its many definitions of “draw”.  I think we added a few new ones!

It had been quite chilly up on the high ridge, but down here in the forest, it was a warm summer’s day.  Here we met our only other traveler, a man with his small dog, heading up the path.  Making good time, we dropped down onto a good logging trail and, swinging to the right, we were soon back at the cars, having made easy work of this strenuous route.  Looking back up the mountain, it seemed impossible that we had been strolling along that high ridge far up in the sky. 

To any readers of this blog, pick a day with a sunny forecast – then ignore it and go anyway.  Make it a clockwise circuit for the easiest ascent, and start early to allow time to enjoy a spectacular experience. 




Statistics
Tent Ridge Horseshoe
Sat. 21 July

Total Dist.

10.1 km (hike)

Height Gain

 2,700 ft.

Max. Elev.

 8,380 ft.

Time

6 hrs. 32 mins.




Other Stats.

Start hike:     8.00 am
1st peak:      10.34 am
Summit:       11.39 am
N. peak:       12.48 pm
Ret. to car:     2.32 pm

Temp: +16 C to +21 C,  much colder on summit

Cloudy, sunny breaks, strong W. winds, early light shower.


Sunday

After returning home last night, I was once again on the road early with C. for our special day trip to Banff.  By 8.45 a.m. we were waiting expectedly at the Blue Canoe hut beside the Bow River in Banff.  Promptly at 9 o’clock things sprang to action.  We were first onto the river in our neat blue canoe, paddling (not quite yet like professionals) up-river.  It was a perfect cloudless day and already warm and windless – ideal for a canoe trip. 

We found that the current was quite strong, but we made some progress up the side of the wide river, enjoying the river life – families of ducks and geese.  Turning around we raced back downstream before turning up the narrow channels leading to the Vermilion Lakes.  The banks were overgrown.  Here the Canada geese were plentiful, resting by the water’s edge.  There was very little current, and we made easy progress through the twisting channel before coming out onto the open water of the first of the three Vermilion lakes.  We paddled leisurely on the mirror-like surface, snapping away with our cameras at the upside-down reflections of mountains and forests that ringed our lake.  On our return journey through the channels we saw two or three beaver playing around, slapping their tails on the water.  Nearby, hidden by the trees, a train passed by, blowing its distinctive horn – a totally Canadian experience.

Our next adventure was to take the gondola up Sulphur Mountain.  Today being a sunny summer weekend, the international tourists were out in full force.  Yet despite the crowds, we did not have to wait very long for our ride, and it was all quite relaxed.  We shared our gondola with two elderly ladies from Chicago who seemed to appreciate my personal guided tour of the main peaks!  On the summit we joined the throngs making their way up to the tiny cosmic ray station on the summit of Sanson Peak, on the beautifully constructed wooden skywalks.  By stepping a few yards off the skywalk, down the west side access trail, we left 99% of the tourists behind.  Finding a handy rock, we laid out our luxury picnic of turkey, pate, brie, raspberries, and other delicacies. C’s bread roll was brazenly stolen off her plate by an aggressive gopher, and we had to swat him away.  Below us a fat marmot wisely kept his distance. The views up here were spectacular, although on the western horizon the next line of weather was gradually moving eastwards.

There’s a reason why the crowds flock to Banff year-round.  This is a superb mountain setting, and even the chattering folk from all over the world only served to reinforce the feeling that we, the locals, were privileged to be able to treat Banff as our own personal day-trip destination.

In less than a couple of hours we were safely home, ending an action-packed two days in the Canadian Rockies.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

City Circuit


Sat. 14 July:  City Circuit


I’m rapidly turning into the Passionate Biker!


Today I traveled over sixty kilometres across the city, from the furthest northwest light rail transit (LRT) station at Crowfoot to the far south at Sikome Lake, and then northwest across the full length of Fish Creek, finally north and east back home.  The major feature along most of my route was the magnificent Bow River.  It flows into the city from the Rocky Mountains to the West, and then soon after passing the downtown core, turns south. 



Biking from the house, it took me only a few minutes to reach Southland LRT station.  I didn’t have to wait very long for a train.  Loading the bike on board, I enjoyed the journey through the city to the furthest end of the line far in the northwest of the city.  At this early time in the morning the train was almost empty.  At Crowfoot I started my journey down through wide streets downhill to the Bow River.  The pathways followed the river all the way to the city.

For the first time I crossed the new Peace Bridge to reach the city centre.  This modern pedestrian bridge was larger and wider than I had expected.  The whole riverfront beside the city core has been, and continues to be, improved.  Wide pathways, places to sit out beside the river, large flower baskets everywhere.  It has been transformed.

It had been a long time – probably more than two decades, since I had travelled the section between Princes Island Park in the city centre and Sikome Lake, approximately 24 km to the south.  In that time, much has changed. The pathway follows the Bow River all the way south.  It crosses and then later recrosses the river – the second time on a beautiful custom-built pedestrian suspension bridge.  The path is wide and has a hard surface, making for easy biking.  It is part of the Trans-Canada Trail.

Sikome Lake was being prepared for opening, with sprinklers watering the grass and the park workers busily preparing for another summer day at the lake.

Here at Sikome I turned away from the Bow River to follow Fish Creek in a northwesterly direction, through meadows and forests, crossing and recrossing the creek on several new bridges built to replace the old bridges, washed away in a great storm a few years back.  Today it was warm and sunny and very green.

This was a trip of many contrasts:  modern suburban streets, riverside trails, downtown city parks, wide grassy meadows, rolling green hills, dark forests, and – towards the end – marshland.  But overall this was an exploration of a wide, fast-flowing river, almost bursting its banks with the volume of snow-melt racing down from the mountains.  I’d recommend this journey to anyone wanting a different view of this city and its grand river. 
.


Statistics
Crowfoot/Sikome/Fish Creek
Sat. 14 July

Total Dist.

61.6 km (bike)

Height Gain

   100 ft.

Max. Elev.

 3,642 ft.

Time (biking)

4 hrs. 26 mins.




Other Stats.

Dep.home:     6.07 am
S’land LRT:    6.21 am
Crowft LRT:    7.05 am
P.I Park:         8.01 am
Sikome L:       9.31 am
37 St. SW:    10.50 am
Home:          11.19 am

Temp: +16 C to +21 C

Av. Speed:13.9 km/h.

Cloudy, hazy sun, brighter later on.  Warm, no wind.




More Stats.
Leg                      Dist.       Av.km/h

Home - S’land LRT
Crowft LRT – P.I. Park
P.I. Park – Sikome L.
Sikome L. – 37 St. SW
37 St. SW - Home
TOTAL

2.9 km       14.5
16.4 km      17.6
23.7 km      15.8
12.6 km        9.6
  6.0 km      12.4
61.6 km     13.9