The Passionate Hiker: TOP TEN (5): Great Divide Marathon (September 1984)

TOP TEN (5)

More than three decades ago, between 1983 and 1987 the Passionate Hiker was busy setting the foundations for his career, and his family, in Alberta, but it didn't stop him from going on a number of exciting adventures in the Canadian Rockies.

Here is the fifth of his selected "Top Ten" trips during that time frame. The narrative comes from his diaries, written at the time. Several of the photos come from the original negatives and have never been printed before. It was a long, challenging day.

9,000 ft. above sea level on Canada's Continental Divide

SAT. 1^STSEPTEMBER 1984:

GREAT DIVIDE MARATHON

Background to this Story:

Only three weeks after the epic climb up Mist Mountain, I was out in the mountains once again, on an even more challenging adventure, along the Continental Divide high above the Kananaskis Lakes. The guidebooks describe this as a two or three day strenuous backpacking route, but Roger H and I completed the 34 kilometres and almost 4,000 ft. vertical gain in a single day. We climbed above the glaciers and along a knife-edged snow-covered ridge. There were some scares, and it was a very long day, but a complete success.

Our 34 km route: starts and ends at the Upper Kananaskis Lake

My Diary:

“One of the finest backpacking experiences in the Canadian Rockies. This route takes a magnificent line along the ridgepole of the Great Divide.” (Daffern – Kananaskis Country Trail Guide)

The summer of 1984 has been marked by a series of increasingly difficult challenges that have included trudging through blizzards in July, picking our way along rocky ledges to over 10,000 ft. in August, and now this!

Today we cover 34 kilometres and approximately 4,000 ft. of ascent during the day. We see lakes, waterfalls, jagged mountains, glaciers, ridges, bare mountainsides and gentle wooded valleys – in fact everything that makes the Canadian Rockies so fantastic for hiking.

Our team is reduced to Roger H and me today. Usual 5 a.m. start from Calgary puts us in the Upper Kananaskis Lake car park and ready to go by 7 a.m., just as the morning sunlight catches the high peaks.

The first stage of our trek takes us along the southern edge of the Upper Kananaskis Lake on a very pretty forest path. The morning sun shines directly from behind us, lighting up the path.

Swing up through the trees to Hidden Lake. Roaring wind from the mountains raises whitecaps on the wild lake. Huge piles of deadwood lie along the northern shoreline. We skirt the lake to its southern end on greasy mud, rocks, fallen trees and various other obstacles.

From here the path climbs steeply to a rocky valley. Ahead, the impressive Fossil Falls. Above us a large party of Canadian soldiers threads its way down the cliff-band. Every step we take is a struggle as the rocks give way and so you only progress a half-step! But finally we are up to the cliffs and look across to the thundering waterfall.

Along cliff-bands into the upper valley, pausing by an intriguing ice tunnel – the remnant of a glacier.

The next portion was a delight – although already at over 7,000 ft., we pass through an enchanting country of green valleys, leading over a series of ridges to Aster Lake – wild, lonely and spectacular setting.

Wade the river outlet – using my ‘plastic bag’ technique – and curve round the head of the valley. Swirling cloud hides the peaks, from where glaciers curve down the mountainsides. A long flat gravel-bottomed valley leads to the glaciers. It seems like it might have been only a few weeks ago that this valley was filled with ice.

It snows as we climb the final hillside towards the Great Divide. Up into a gap between Warrior Mountain and Mt. Northover. A large curving snow-drift marks the top of the pass, the Continental Divide, and the border of Alberta and British Columbia.

Contour round the hillside, above 2 small lakes, into a steep valley. Opposite is the strange peak of Waka Nambé – like a thumb pointing up. We trudge through the snow, upwards in the footsteps of our unseen ‘yeti’, and finally onto the ridge – once again on the Great Divide. Here in the snow and wind and mist we come upon a weary traveller – huge rucksack [backpack] with rope, crampons, 2 ice axes and ready for Everest but worn out and lost. He joins us as we turn upward in the thick mist onto the ridge.

Here we are above an enormous glacier, which clings to the mountainside and is swallowed up in the mist [I remember seeing an alarming gap between the top edge of the glacier and the steep mountainside, thinking that if we fell into that, we’d never get out!]. It’s particularly cold up here – like walking in a refrigerator. The wind funnily enough has died down.

Have an exciting map reading problem. We walk down to a dead end. Above us the glacier is hissing like a live thing. Just as we wonder which route to take, the mist clears and displays a most spectacular panorama. We had been heading down onto the glacier instead of up onto the ridge.

This next section is certainly the most exciting part of my long walking career! Follow the yeti’s footprints through the snow on an increasingly narrowing ridge. Cornices grace the summit. Up here at 9,000 ft. on the Great Divide one feels very exposed and isolated. Negotiate a particularly razor-sharp portion of ridge – long drops both sides.

Eventually we drop down steeply to a col opposite two fine peaks – Onslow and Defender. Drop steeply off the col and down to a glacial valley. Excellent snow ‘highways’ to skate down, then into more tame country – bear country definitely. The valley floor is also gravelly and flat – would make a great runway!

Finally reach Three Isle Lake, a popular backpacking destination. Skirt the lake to the eastern end, where we have a chat with the Park Ranger – a young guy who camps up here to keep an eye on the campers, who although fairly numerous are also very quiet.

Up through the trees then down the steep headwall into the valley below. Roger starts a merry pace down through the forest and so we are soon at the Maud Lake junction. By now we are getting a little weary.

On to a forestry road that insists on climbing, and eventually we can see down to the Upper Kananaskis Lake once again, this time from the north side. A hard slog leads us to the road between the Upper and Lower lakes. Evening sunshine lights up the mountains. Along the road and finally back to our car, where the light is starting to fade at 7.40 p.m. as I bathe my feet in pump water!

Over 12½ hours of continuous walking, with only a few breaks – and one’s memory crammed too full with incredible sights and experiences – a marathon day!

STATISTICS:

Summit Elev. = 9,330 ft.

Height Gain = 3,830 ft.

Hike Distance = 34 km

Time on Trail = 12 hrs. 40 mins.