The Passionate Hiker: Highwood Pass

Sat. 28 September: The Highwood Pass

“The Pass is Open!! The Pass is Open!!” was the passioned cry from the classic musical “Seven Brides for Seven Brothers”. And finally, after the devastation from the June floods, the highway from the Kananaskis Valley up to the Highwood Pass was now opened to traffic. Naturally I was curious to see the damage, but I was also hoping to see some snow and colorful larches, so everything pointed to the Highwood.

There was plenty of colour in the Kananaskis Valley as I drove all the way south from the Trans-Canada Highway to the winter gate. Past the gate, I had glimpses of snowy peaks, and as I reached the Highwood Pass, there was a skiff of new snow on the road. At this early time in the day, there were only two cars in the summit parking area, but this would change dramatically as I was to discover.

The road had actually been opened about five kilometres beyond the Pass, at a wide point in the road opposite the sign for the Lost Lemon Mine. I walked down the road past the concrete barriers, to a bend in the road where Storm Creek ran under the highway – or used to. For during the June floods the creek had run wild, taking out half the road and creating a new path for itself. The repair crews had not reached this area yet, so I could see the extensive damage for myself. Further down the road, the expanded creek had taken out a smaller section of roadside, which would be an easier job to repair. In the meantime, it will not be until next summer before this road will be reopened. It was a cold morning with snow on the mountains and specks of snow flying in the wind.

Back up at the snowy Pass, in the short time since I had driven past, a dramatic change had taken place. Dozens of car had arrived, and more were streaming in, unleashing multiple hiking parties, some of which were already heading out on the trails. This turned out to be a good thing. The advance parties had selected good paths through the snow, making the tricky route-finding decisions for me.

I wrapped up well, and strode down the icy path. The trail soon headed up through the trees, and I was glad to have my MICROspikes with me on what was instantly a slick and slippery trek through the snow along steep-sided forest. Ahead of me one group was having difficulties, and as I passed them, their leader was offering them an easier alternative further down the valley, which I think they took. But the two groups ahead of them were making steady progress and I was happy to follow them.

The trail up to Pocaterra Cirque is an exciting one. Coming out of the trees, it curves around below steep open mountain slopes before heading into a wide and colorful larch forest, with views down the north side of the Highwood Pass. Climbing beside a stream it then arrives at a tiny lake called Pocaterra Tarn. Here I passed the next group of hikers (mostly Japanese) and continued up the valley to one of the prettiest places in the Rockies.

Here the valley flattens out a bit and scattered larches frame the mountain wall above: west to Grizzly Col and Mt. Tyrwhitt, and north to Pocaterra Ridge, all covered in drifted snow. I enjoyed the climb up through the rocks to the treeline where I found the perfect rock where I sat and watched the Japanese hikers making their way up towards Pocaterra Ridge. One party of three plus a golden retriever were heading up the open snow slopes towards Grizzly

Col.

I’m not sure if they were planning to continue up the impossibly dangerous looking scree slope to the top, but they were headed that way – and there were no reports of missing hikers in the papers the next day!

I found the final golden larch tree high up these slopes, before turning around and contouring across to the Grizzly Col trail before dropping back down. It seemed a very wintry place to stand for a late September day. The larches were certainly colorful but were not quite at peak color. The Fall seems to be very late this year.

On my way down I passed all sorts of groups heading up, most of them slipping and slithering along the trail. People of all ages, some very young, several with dogs, and others in sneakers. The lure of the larches had brought out folks who were not all equipped for this challenging high mountain trail.

It was a festive scene in the parking lot, as I greeted a group of Brits beside their car. The traffic was not very heavy as I dawdled northwards down the Kananaskis Valley, stopping to take pictures of colourful mountain scenery. It was a great day to be out in the high country, even if the half the city had apparently responded to the call that the Pass was now open!

Statistics (Road: Lost Lemon-Mt. Lipsett):

Total Distance: 3.0 km (hike)

Height Gain: 120 ft.

Max. Elev.: 6,725 ft.

Time on Trail: 44 mins.

Dep. car: 9.27 am

Ret. to car: 10.11 am

Temp: +1 deg.C

Weather: Mostly cloudy, gusts