The Snows of October

Sat. 27 October:  The Snows of October

This was a trip into winter.  Only two weeks ago I was camping out on an autumn day with warm winds and flying leaves.  Today looked like any day in January.

The City had received its first snowfall earlier in the week.  The only encouraging part of the weather forecast was the announcement that several ski hills would open this weekend.

I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do until early this morning, when I decided to head for the area where the snow was likely to be most plentiful – the southern end of the Kananaskis Valley.  Rather than trying to find a snow-free corner of the eastern foothills, why not simply declare winter season open, grab my skis and head up the Highwood Pass.

Not surprisingly, on a cold dark late October morning, few other people seemed to have the same plan as I did, so the roads were fairly quiet.  But as I discovered, there was one large group of outdoor adventurers out there and I would see them later in the morning.

This was hunting season, so there were a number of lone vehicles parked beside the road with their occupants somewhere out there armed for business.  It’s always a consideration when heading out into the back-country in the Fall.  There was also a Ranger out there in his truck, keeping an eye on things.

I don’t recall having cross-country ski’d in October before, or at least for many years, so I just wanted to go on a short trip just for bragging rights!  Parking the car at the Kananaskis fire lookout access road, I stepped into my waxless skis and glided down the road past the locked gate, into a wintry scene.  The trees and bushes were covered by a heavy snowfall, and there was at least six inches of firm snow on the trail.  There were signs that a truck and a lone skier had been down here the day before, but it had snowed lightly overnight so I was first today.  There were prints in the snow which at first looked like a large bear might have strolled along the trail, but these footprints continued parallel to the ski track, so I concluded they were human prints.  The new snow had made it hard to be sure.  That was some relief.

It’s a nice cruise along Pocaterra Trail for just short of two kilometres to the junction with Whiskeyjack Trail.  This often busy spot was deserted this morning.  I could have continued up to the fire lookout, but I was satisfied to turn around and make use of the gentle downhill return to glide along through the snowy scenery back to the car.  It had been only six weeks ago that I had biked along this same route.  How quickly the seasons turn here in the Rockies.

Now it was time for some hiking, with my MICROspikes for extra traction.  I drove just a short way up the Highwood Pass to the trailhead for Elbow Lake.  Half expecting it to be almost deserted, I was surprised to find a parking area full of cars and several horse trailers, yet nobody in sight.  The steep, wide trail leading up from the car park had been pressed flat by what I soon learned was a large party of mountain skiers headed for the Mount Rae glacier.  I had expected to need my snow shoes.  In the end it was the easiest of walks up to Elbow Lake, if steep. 

There is a backcountry campsite beside the lake, and I saw one small orange tent planted in the snow, with a couple of guys standing beside it.  The trail, now narrow, ran through the trees beside the lake.  Thanks to the skiers ahead of me, and their wide skis, it was an easy stroll.  I had not particularly planned to head into the side valley towards the Mt. Rae glacier, but this trail was so enticing that I just kept going.  It soon became steeper, climbing a spur of ridge through the trees.  Soon there were spectacular views ahead of the northern cliffs of Mt.Rae (10,558 ft.) and the glacier at the head of the valley.  The views got better as I climbed higher, until I was standing in one of the grandest amphitheatres of mountain scenery I can ever recall visiting.

I had caught up with the rearguard of a party of perhaps twenty or more skiers - four guys taking a rest at the top of a steep slope.  They soon passed me on the final approach towards the toe of the glacier ahead.  What really impressed me was the sight of several people nearing the top of the slopes at the front of the glacier, then some tiny stick figures stretched out across the glacier itself, making a visible zig-zag path up the steep surface of the glacier.  It looked incredibly dangerous and yet spectacular.  Seeing all those people so high up on the mountainside made me realize how tame my own hikes would seem to many people.  On the other hand, thirty years ago I might well have been one of those stick figures.

I turned around where the snow was starting to get really tricky without skis.  I would never have reached this high without skis except for the large party packing down the snow ahead of me.  It was time to call it quits while I was ahead.

Back down in the valley, I made my own route through the trees to the eastern end of Elbow Lake.  It was an interesting journey through a snow-laden forest, but I found a good route leading to the trail which runs eastwards down the Elbow valley towards Tombstone campsite.  

Here I crossed a narrow stream on a half log.  This was actually the Elbow River, and the log represented the very first bridge over the Elbow.  There are some pretty fancy bridges further downstream, as the river flows through the city of Calgary, but this was the very first one on the river’s course.  After a stop for lunch beside the frozen lake, using a handy bench, I made my way back down the steep trail to the car.  As I had relaxed beside the lake, I had heard a few people making their way along the opposite shore, perhaps to join the earlier skiers.

To complete my day, I continued up over the snowy Highwood Pass and down through the Highwood Valley.  I was in no hurry and enjoyed a leisurely drive through the wild snowy scenery, stopping at Cat Creek to enjoy the sight of the Highwood River in the process of freezing up.  It may only be October, but winter in this valley has come to stay.  I have a feeling this will be a long winter.

Statistics
Pocaterra ski trail from Hwy.40
Sat. 27 October
Total Dist.	3.8 km (XC ski)
Height Gain	246 ft.
Max. Elev.	6,315 ft.
Time	1 hrs. 19 mins.

Other Stats.
Dep. car:        8.57 am W’Jack Jn:     9.40 am Ret. to car:   10.16 am	Temp: minus 9 C Mosty overcast, some patches of blue sky, no wind.

Statistics
Elbow Lake, Mt. Rae trail
Sat. 27 October
Total Dist.	7 km (hike)
Height Gain	916 ft.
Max. Elev.	7,316 ft.
Time	2 hrs. 38 mins.

Other Stats.
Dep. car:      10.33 am Elbow L:       10.59 am Glac. view:   11.47 am Ret. to car:     1.11 pm	Temp: around minus 9 C to minus 7 C Mosty overcast, some patches of blue sky, no wind.