The Inkpots Trail

Sat. 12 March: The Inkpots Trail

This mountain trail in Banff Park is a popular destination, year round. A steep snow-packed trail up into a remote Rocky Mountain valley will not guarantee that you will have the place to yourself. As usual, however, it always helps to make an early start.

J and I left Calgary at 6.30 a.m., a good half hour ahead of sunrise. We enjoyed the orange glow to the east, and the pink color of the clouds ahead. It promised to be a sunny day in the mountains, and close to the freezing point. An ideal day for downhill skiers who, even this early, were racing westwards in large numbers to the mountain slopes.

After almost getting stuck in the Johnston Canyon motel parking area, we were first to arrive at the proper parking lot just across the river, and were soon marching up the icy path into Johnston Canyon. We carried our snow shoes, but did not need them as the path was packed down. Our cleats (my MICROspikes and J’s Yaktrax) were ideal for these conditions.

Johnston Canyon at any time of year is justifiably popular. It is an exciting stroll up the canyon, on walkways suspended to the sides of the cliff, and the waters racing down the twisting route below. In winter, it has its own magic. The river is mostly frozen over, but with many open sections. The cliffs are plastered with snow and ice, hanging in sheets. At the waterfalls, the extent of the ice was breathtaking. There were huge walls of what looked very like pipes from some gigantic frozen church organ. The steep slopes of the canyon walls were littered with dangerous avalanche paths of rocks and stones falling from above.

At the Lower Falls (“chutes inferieur”) the waters had fallen almost, but not quite, silent, the falls now one huge slab of ice. The tunnel to the front of the falls was coated in a layer of frost. Higher up, the Upper Falls (“chutes superieur”) were even more spectacular. Huge columns of ice stretched up to the cliffs high above. It was obvious that people come here in large numbers to climb these ice mountains, and it would be a grand sight to see them pull themselves up the soaring columns with their ice axes.

Finally at the top of the upper falls, we stood on the dangerous platform looking far down into the pool below, where water still made its way to the bottom. Here we felt very much like explorers in a world of ice.

Now most people will turn around at this point, returning down the canyon. It would be rare to have the place to oneself, as we had today.

The Inkpots Trail made its way up the forested slopes, and away from the canyon. There had been several hikers up this snowy path since the last snowfall, and so we found it easy going with our boots and spikes. But if you stepped even slightly off the path, you would sink into deep and soft snow.

Like most of the classic trails in the National Parks, this one was thoughtfully graded, following a gentle angle as it twisted and turned up the huge mountainside, but with very few views through the trees.

A high point was reached, and somewhat to our surprise – since we had not carefully studied the guidebooks – the trail now descended into the valley ahead. This would add some effort on the way back, we thought. It was at this high point that we were a little surprised to be overtaken by a group of four young Brits – unmistakable by their accents – possibly army judging by their haircuts. They were making good time.

We dropped down into a grand mountain valley, surrounded by enormous jagged peaks, half hidden in the cloud. There was deep snow lying on the valley floor, which was a very pretty scene with scattered trees and open meadows. Here were the Inkpots, several small open pools of water, surrounded by deep snow. There was a stream running through some of the pools, and at the bottom of each pool, spring water was bubbling up through the mud.

This was an ideal place to stop for a picnic lunch. The valley stretched to the north, looking very grand and remote. To the east was a jagged peak which apparently has not yet been named. J very kindly suggested it could be called after The Passionate Hiker, but I doubt we would have the final word on that!

The 115 uphill metres to the high point on the pathway were accomplished easily enough. After that, it was plain sailing downhill the whole way. I put on my snow shoes for more fun – and to beat down the path for upcoming travelers. And soon enough, they started to appear, in growing numbers. First an elderly couple on skis, then several snow-shoers. Further down Moose Meadows trail, we passed about 20 kids on snow shoes with their teacher at the back, who smilingly proclaimed that he had the “smaller group” with him today.

It was a fast descent, and an enjoyable trip down through the trees on an old fire road, then down and down gentle slopes until finally we came out at Moose Meadows car park. From here it was a fast 1.8 km stroll along the snow-packed Highway 1A which mercifully was not very busy with traffic. Behind us the ramparts of Castle Mountain soared into the now blue sky.

Back at the car park, we found a lively scene, with streams of tourists heading up the slippery snow-packed trail into Johnston Canyon, some dressed as if ready for a shopping trip to the mall. By now, at least, it was a relatively warm sunny day.

It was a smooth ride back out of the mountains and into the city, where the sun was shining, and the mountains looked grand on the western horizon.


Statistics
Johnston Canyon/Inkpots
Sat. 12 March

Total Dist. 8.9 km (hike) + 4.8 km (snow shoe) = 13.7 km
Height Gain 1,460 ft.
Max. Elev. 5,774 ft.
Time on trail 4 hrs. 56 mins.