Galatea Lakes

Sat. 24 July: Lillian and Galatea Lakes

Any trail which starts off with a hike across a suspension bridge will always get my vote! This crossing of the Kananaskis River is just the start of a magnificent trail up Galatea Creek, leading to three stunning mountain lakes. And along the way one follows a lively stream, with nine further crossings on a variety of smaller wooden bridges.

Given the perfect weather forecast, J and I knew that this would be a busy trail by mid-morning. So at 6 a.m. we were leaving the city, and were on the trail just a few minutes after 7 a.m. It was a cloudless day, but a cool morning, with temperatures around 7 degrees C. The Galatea car park, in the Kananaskis Valley, already had a dozen cars in it. These belonged to the campers who were staying overnight up at Lillian Lake. We were very likely first on the trail today.

The path climbed at a gentle pace for several kilometers, crossing and re-crossing the Galatea Creek, which was bubbling along, still carrying the snow-melt down from the upper lakes. We made good time. After the final bridge, the trail started to climb more steeply, to the important trail junction where the Guinn’s Pass trail branched off to the right. It dropped down to the creek, then climbed steeply up to the high pass and over into Ribbon Creek. We carried straight on, soon arriving at the eastern end of Lillian Lake, a marshy area with fallen trees in the shallow water. Just around the corner, the lake itself came into view. Surrounded by trees, it has a dark green colour, with a high rocky mountainside behind. The mountain and the blue sky were reflected in the water. Reflections along the shoreline were so perfect, without even the smallest ripple on the water – an ideal nightmare for a jigsaw picture!

The wilderness campsite consisted of tents widely spaced in the trees at the western end of the lake, each sitting on a gravel pad. It was around 9 a.m. and some campers were up and already fishing by the lake or making breakfast.

Here we turned onto the Galatea Lakes trail and started to climb more steeply up through the trees above the campsite. The trail made a zig-zag up the steepest section, then came up out of the trees onto open scree and avalanche slopes. Already the views looking back down to Lillian Lake were fine. Towering above us was a rocky mountainside with a large outcrop sticking out horizontally, and looking as if it must tumble down on top of us at any moment. I suggested to J that if it did, I would clutch my camera in one hand and hold it high, so if we were buried, it would be recovered and we might win a posthumous “picture of the year” award. Perhaps the 7,000+ feet of elevation was already affecting me.

From here onwards, as we climbed up into the Alpine zone, every step brought us a new and ever more spectacular view. This might have been one of the finest hikes I have ever done. We came in sight of the lower Galatea Lake, surrounded by mountains, and still with snow drifts all around. The water glittered a bright blue. The trail followed the northern shoreline, on steep scree slopes, on a fairly well defined path. While it seemed quite safe when walking along it, when we looked back from the far end of the trail, it looked extremely exposed and steep. We crossed a large area of snow left over from a winter avalanche path. Up to our right was a tall, slender waterfall dropping down from the high summit ridge, passing in stages through tunnels of drifted snow.

At the far end of the lake, crossing more snowfields, we then climbed up the far hillside to a gap in the low ridge. Here the wildflowers were beautiful. Standing at this gap, we had a stunning view back down to the lower lake, but an even grander view west to the Upper Galatea Lake. Here winter still seemed to rule. The lake lay below towering mountain walls, and was still partly covered by ice and snow. Large patches of snow clung to the mountainsides. At the northern side of the lake, was a sweeping rocky hillside falling down into the lake. This might well have been a glacier even within living memory.

The hike round to the far end of the Upper Lake was a joy. Along green grassy slopes, through some trees, then onto the bare rocky shoreline to the western end. Here, below the high cliffs, we sat on the rocks and looked down into the sparkling blue waters. Patches of snow were still lying on the lake, with the white snow turning to a bright blue under the water. This was a perfect place for a picnic lunch. We had the entire mountain bowl to ourselves.

Returning to the gap in the ridge between the two Galatea lakes, we turned right and followed the trail high above the southern shoreline of the Lower Lake, along scree slopes. Ahead of us a tall vertical cliff soared up into the sky. The trail threaded through some interesting rock formations. Just before the trail took a steep dive down the slopes towards Lillian Lake, we were rewarded with grand views of that lake lying far below us in the trees, and shining with a bright green colour. The trail guide warned that this steep section of trail was not advised for upward travel, and they were right. Even going downhill on the steep slopes was tricky. The final section down to the campsite consisted of loose rocks, designed to give someone a bad fall and a twisted ankle. We arrived at the campsite, by the modern biffy, with ankles intact – but knees aching.

Here at the campsite, things had sprung to life. People were sitting by the lake, relaxing, or gathered in small groups chatting away, or marching up the trail towards the upper lakes. The day was well under way. The guidebook description could not be improved upon: “Every summer weekend, the environs of the lake takes on a festive atmosphere from the mingling of campers and day trippers who are fishing, socializing…”.

This was nothing compared to the scene that would unfold in the coming hour or so. For from this point onwards, as we passed along the edge of the lake and made the long journey back down the trail, we were never alone for more than a few minutes. A constant stream of day trippers was making its way up the trail. Young couples, Japanese tour parties, families from Europe, people with dogs (on and off leash), parents carrying babies, small kids running ahead of them. One could see why there would be no room for bikers, and why bikes are banned from this trail. Even the bears must have given up on this trail some time ago – no room for them either! J did a very good job leading the way, politely greeting each group, and stepping off the narrow path to let them through. For many of them, this was clearly a tough journey, and several breathless people asked us how much further they had to go.

Just below the steepest section of trail, at a bridge, we were looking for the Lost Lake trail, and although not signposted, we found it, just below the confluence of the two branches of Galatea Creek. We followed this overgrown trail a few hundred yards to look for the remains of Alvin Guinn’s cabin. Guinn was a cowboy, guide and outfitter who led a long life in the Rockies, only passing away in 2006. His son runs Boundary Ranch in the Kananaskis Valley today. Guinn was famous for leading a string of packhorses over an impossible mountain pass and thus giving his name to a nearby route. There is not much left of his cabin. From here, a narrow trail leads through the trees towards Lost Lake and then up a steep route over to Rummel Lake.

Back on the main trail, we continued to pass folks making their way up to join the growing crowds at Lillian Lake – must be quite a party up there by now. To have had this trail, and the upper lakes, to ourselves, simply by getting up early, seemed too good to be true.

Finally we arrived back at the suspension bridge, feeling a little hot, under the now 26 degree temperatures and blue skies. A perfectly situated bench allowed us to sit in the shade and admire the bridge and Mt. Kidd’s towering slopes above. One final latecomer was heading up the trail. He asked if there was anyone up there as he was afraid of meeting a bear. We were able to put his mind at rest on that point! One final steep haul brought us back to the car, in a now overflowing car park. We were alone here – everyone else was fighting for space up at Lillian Lake. It was a hot afternoon.

The Kananaskis Valley was busy with cars and motorbikes as everyone was out enjoying the perfect Alberta summer weather – while it lasts.


Statistics
Lillian & Galatea Lakes
Sat. 24 July

Total Dist. 18 km (hike)
Height Gain 2214 ft.
Max. Elev. 7250 ft.
Time on trail 6 hr. 54 mins.