The Passionate Hiker: TOP TEN (4): Mist Mountain

TOP TEN (4)

More than three decades ago, between 1983 and 1987 the Passionate Hiker was busy setting the foundations for his career, and his family, in Alberta, but it didn't stop him from going on a number of exciting adventures in the Canadian Rockies.

Here is the fourth of his selected "Top Ten" trips during that time frame. The narrative comes from his diaries, written at the time. Several of the photos come from the original negatives and have never been printed before. It was a spectacular day for taking pictures. This is a two-part story.

Aug. 5 recce route on the right, and Aug. 11 ascent route on the left

PART ONE:

SUN. 5^TH AUGUST 1984:

PICKLEJAR RECCE

Background to this Story:

Mist Mountain (10,297 ft.) is not in the Kananaskis Country hiking guide – for good reason. So the weekend before our planned ascent of the mountain, I climbed an adjacent hill to try and figure out the best route for our climb. From my viewpoint, I had a clear view of the south face of the mountain, and could see a possible way to reach the summit via the west ridge. I was now ready for my first attempt at hiking above ten thousand feet.

View of Mist Mtn. summit from "recce" peak

My Diary:

The assault on a 10,000 ft. peak requires good advance planning and this was the reason for my trip. Next week we planned to climb Mist Mountain and the maps and guides show no route up the steep mountain. However, we believed that an ascent was possible so I chose a nearby hill situated to the south from which I could get a good view of the approaches.

Driving down the Kananaskis Valley on a cloudless morning, I noticed that the slopes of Mount Allan ski resort have just started to be hacked out of the densely forested lower slopes. It’s a shame. A posh wooden sign points out the golf course, and down at Fortress Junction a gas station and store have sprung up; well-concealed, but still a sign of increasing use of the Park. New winter gates and sign have been installed at the Provincial Park turnoff.

Picklejar Creek is quite a way down the southern slopes of the Highwood Pass and leads eastwards to the Highwood Range. The trail starts from the far end of a new picnic area and climbs through the trees, gaining height above the bubbling creek. An attractive trail, but looking like it has not been well used recently, climbs up into the valley. A mountain wall cuts off the head of the valley but I turn up onto the open hillside.

This little side valley leads up onto a col between two grassy hills. Switchback up onto the western hillside which leads to an attractive N-S ridge. From here, I have grand views all round, particularly northwards to the gaunt, rocky lines of Mist Mountain. Study the ridges and valley leading up to the summit and the “rotten rocky” eastern cliffs. Take some photos for studying at leisure.

In the meantime the weather has taken a sudden change. Clear blue skies have given way to thunderclouds and I whizz down the hillside on to the well-made pathway leading down in zig zags to the Mist Creek valley. By the time I reach the road the rain is falling lightly and thunder rolling overhead. As I get into the car the rain really gets going!

A successful recce has revealed a possible route up Mist Mountain and in only six days’ time we’ll find out if our dream of breaking the 10,000 ft. barrier will come true.

STATISTICS:

Summit Elev. = 7,820 ft.

Height Gain = 2,060 ft.

Hike Distance = 9.5 km

Time on Trail = 3 hrs. 25 mins.

Daunting view of Mist Mtn. from Picklejar Rec. Area

Potential route from left to right, along high ridge to summit

Close-up of western ridge - we ended up dropping down
off the ridge into the internal valley, then up to the summit

PART TWO:

SAT. 11^TH AUGUST 1984:

MIST MOUNTAIN - 10,297 FT.

Background to this Story:

Mist Mountain rises high above the Highwood Valley in Kananaskis Country, west of Calgary. It is clearly visible from the city as part of the jagged Rocky Mountain skyline. I had been on a “recce” hike the previous weekend and today was joined by my two “core team” hiking colleagues, John M and Roger H. Our planned assault via the west ridge of the mountain proved impossible. Halfway along the ridge the going became far too dangerous. So we dropped down into the central valley. In the process John slipped, but was unharmed. He wisely chose to stay there as Roger and I climbed the crazily steep valley to the summit far above. Our descent was much easier. We had succeeded in hiking above ten thousand feet for the first time in my hiking career.

My first ten-thousand-footer

My Diary:

Our traditional 5 a.m. meeting at the Paskapoo junction – off to the north an occasional flash of lightning brightens the early morning sky.

Already the Mount Allan ski runs extend further up the mountain as clearing operations continue.

Today is sunny as we drive over the Highwood Pass to start our hike, by a creek that runs down from the valley between Mt. Lipsett and Mist Mountain.

A forestry road, overgrown, leads up the forested hillside. A uniformly steep grade brings us out of the trees onto grassy slopes.

The unremitting slope soon gains us 1,500 ft. to a rocky outcrop which we tackle head-on. Here I leave my walking stick in favour of two hands to grip the rock. Very flaky stuff. A short scramble and we’re up on the first ridge, and on the 8,000 ft. level.

Scramble along this narrow rocky ridge, steep drop both sides to the second ridge. Now all rock and scree – no sign of nature. This second ridge runs all the way eventually to the summit, curving round and climbing steeply. The ridge narrows to a knife-edge. Weird strata, vertical slabs, overhanging rocks, until we cannot make it further despite several attempts and no little courage.

We are forced, at about 9,000 ft., to drop extremely steeply down into the ‘internal’ mountain valley. John slips down a snow slope but is ok. [Nevertheless, he sensibly decides to stop there as Roger and I continue the summit attempt.]

This valley is just a mass of broken rock. The next pitch is up the steep face of the mountain, keeping to the smooth, exposed rock, as the loose stuff is like walking on ball bearings and great effort for no reward. This leads to a spectacular ridge which has an eastern edge which is sliced off vertically and the cliffs fall unrestricted for over 3,000 ft.

Up here at around 10,000 ft. one feels a little more short of breath and a bit light-headed: “Oh look, a 3,000 ft. drop. Must have a look over the edge. Whoops – almost knocked over by that gust of wind!”

The final assault climbs steeply to the last – and summit – ridge, fairly narrow and like a pile of broken slates – leading to a fine summit with cairn and not much room to sit! Surprised to pass a couple of guys up there – didn’t expect to see anyone as it’s not on any tourist route or in any guide book. Naturally from 10,297 ft. the views are spectacular! The rock lines are all thrown upwards to jagged summits, turned 90° by the forces of nature.

A panorama of peaks stretching out forever. Lots of glaciers, snow. Mist Mountain has a gigantic eastern cliff. It’s well over a vertical kilometre to the valley below. Our first 10,000-footer and well above any recommended hikes in the Canadian Rockies guidebooks.

Glissade down the steep scree slopes. Great fun – sensation of bringing half the mountainside down with us! Pick up John, who is fine, and trudge down the rocky valley, stopping for a splash in a tumbling stream coming from a snow-patch above. Enjoy a melon.

Over a grassy col which leads down into a little green paradise. Keep a look out for bears. Lots of colourful wild-flowers. Finally come out onto the overgrown forestry track which leads us back to the car where we congratulate each other on an extremely challenging day.

STATISTICS:

Summit Elev. = 10,297 ft.

Height Gain = 4,170 ft.

Hike Distance = 10 km

Time on Trail = not recorded (full-day trip)