Trail Business

Wed. 23 September:  Trail Business

Late summer along the Cataraqui Trail west of Harrowsmith

Yet another perfect day to be outdoors – and I was out there all day!

I spent the morning biking along the Cataraqui Trail, from Sydenham to Yarker and back.  This was in preparation for a hike which I will be leading in October.  Things will look a lot different by then, but today it was much more like a summer’s day than the first day of the Fall. 

I was kept busy taking measurements of distance between key locations along the trail, and at the same time enjoying the cuttings and embankments which are a feature of this section of line.  There are long straight stretches, running through the fields and woods.  The big climax comes right at the end, where Yarker station is approached on a high level bridge spanning river and road.  Something for weary hikers to look forward to after about seventeen kilometres of plodding along the line from Sydenham.

Bridge carries Cataraqui Trail over the Sydenham-Harrowsmith road

An important part of today’s goals was to visit the Westport bakery.  I followed the direct route from Sydenham through the forested Canadian Shield country on sometimes narrow, twisting gravel roads. 

After stocking up at the bakery I turned south to Bedford Mills for my afternoon adventure.  My intent was to try and see if I could meet up with a lone end-to-end hiker travelling the Rideau Trail.  The schedule showed that she should be passing this way this afternoon. 

I biked down the Massassauga Road, a lonely undulating gravel road leading southeast from Bedford Mills.  This is also the route of the Rideau Trail.  The route continues along Taggart Lane and into the forested hill country. 

Heading into the hills:  Rideau Trail east of Massassauga Road

I parked my bike at the old municipal dump and continued on foot as far as a footbridge in the woods below the first hillside.  Here I waited for a hour or so, listening for the sound of an approaching hiker.  The slight breeze stirred the treetops.  The only sound was of acorns dropping onto the forest floor and squirrels racing around collecting them. 

This section of the Rideau Trail has a special quality about it.  On my end-to-end trip last year, it was here that I felt as if I had just crossed a range of mountains and was now back in the known world!

It was getting to be late afternoon, so I decided that I should wait no longer.  I walked back to the bike and cycled leisurely back to the car, parked at the Anglican Church in Bedford Mills.  It was a hot afternoon, but the long summer afternoons and evenings are now gone, and it was already starting to cool off.  I hoped that my friend was alright and that she would reach Bedford Mills before dark.

Bedford Mills Anglican Church - ideal access point for the Rideau Trail

I had travelled almost fifty kilometres today, mostly by bike.  Two thirds of that distance was along the Cataraqui Trail, and one third on the Rideau Trail.  These two trails are joined in a couple of places, and they form a wonderful system for people who enjoy the outdoors.  If you haven’t explored them, please go out right now and do so!

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics (Cataraqui):

Total Distance:      34.6 km (bike)

Time on Trail:        3 hrs. 12 mins.

Sydenham:             8.32 am

Harrowsmith:         9.16 am

Yarker:                 10.17 am

Harrowsmith:       11.11 am

Ret. to  car:          11.44 am

Temp:                  +14 to +20C

Weather:              Cloudless, perfect day.

Statistics (Rideau):

Total Distance:      9.8 km (bike) + 5.0 (hike) = 14.8 km

Time on Trail:       3 hrs. 5 mins.

Bedford Mills:       1.22 pm

Footbridge:           2.53 pm

Ret. to  car:          4.27 pm

Temp:                  +24C

Weather:              Cloudless, perfect day.

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The St. Lawrence River: Long Sault to Upper Canada Village

Wed. 16 September:  The St. Lawrence River:  Long Sault to Upper Canada Village

Perfect place for a bike ride - and the perfect day for it

What a day for a bike ride!

About an hour’s fast drive down the road from Charleston Lake is the Long Sault Parkway.  Several islands were created in the 1950’s when the St. Lawrence Seaway was built, raising the level of the St. Lawrence River.  These islands have been connected by causeways to create a scenic ten kilometre Parkway. 

On this late summer weekday, under cloudless skies, there was almost no traffic along this road, making it an ideal leisurely biking route.  But this is just a short part of a much longer trail which follows the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario for hundreds of kilometres.

My route today took me westwards across this chain of islands, and then further west along the biking trail to Upper Canada Village, and then back again.    The section immediately west of the Long Sault Parkway runs through a wildlife sanctuary, along a raised pathway with great views of the birds swimming and wading in the surrounding waters.

It was a hot sunny day, with a westerly breeze.  Schools may be back but summer is still here – for a few more days anyway.  There was little evidence of the bright Fall colours just around the corner.

A few coaches were parked at the entrance to Upper Canada Village, but the adjacent riverside park was deserted.  I stopped to admire the monument to the Battle of Cryslers Farm, where in 1813 a hard-fought victory over the Americans saved Canada from invasion.  Here the Union Jack still proudly flies.

On my return bike ride, with the breeze at my back, I stopped at Woodlands Island park.  Here  picnic tables were spread out across rolling fields, beneath tall maples and oaks, beside the St. Lawrence River.   A large sandy beach had a tempting swimming area.  It had already been closed up for the season, so I sat alone under a wooden gazebo looking out across the great river, shining silver in the bright sun.

Back at Charleston Lake campsite I had just put my feet up to relax when the sound of bagpipes suddenly filled the air.  A nearby camper was treating us to a short concert.  The sound probably carried to the many distant islands scattered across this remote lake, alerting back-country travelers that all was well with the world.  I walked down to the beach with its perfect swimming area just as the sun was dipping below the trees.  Nothing much had changed at Charleston Lake in the quarter century since my last visit.  And that’s a good thing. 

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately.  

Statistics

Total Distance:     44.8 km (bike)

Time on Trail:       3 hrs. 42 mins.

Long Sault (E):      9.30 am

Long Sault (W):   10.16 am

Upper Can Vill:    11.19 am

Long Sault (W):   12.13 pm

Ret. to  car:            1.12 pm

Temp:                  +27C

Weather:              W. breeze, cloudless, hot.

This chain of connected islands was formed by the building of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950's

No traffic along the Parkway.   Sunlight on the St. Lawrence River

Plenty of wildlife on display

Nice reflections

Causeway between islands

Each island is named for a famous historical figure

Typical vistas along the Parkway

There is a wildlife sanctuary here

A bike pathway continues west to Upper Canada Village

Commemorates villages lost by  the building of the Seaway

This battle saved Canada from being invaded by the Americans

Here the Union Jack still flies proudly

Returning east through the wildlife sanctuary

Beach on Woodlands Island - already closed for the season

Last stretch of Parkway leading back to the East Gate

Blue Mountain

Tues. 15 September:  Blue Mountain

My base of operations

This ridge, rising above a sea of trees all around, is the highest point in Leeds County.  

There are all-round views which today seemed to stretch forever.  I imagined I could see the Adirondacks to the south, across the St. Lawrence River in the USA, and Flagpole Hill in Frontenac Park to the northwest.

My base of operations was Charleston Lake Provincial Park, which L and I had last visited exactly a quarter century ago with our two girls, then aged four and two.  I seemed to remember them dancing on the top of a picnic table!

It is possible to reach the summit of Blue Mountain from inside the Provincial Park, but only by canoeing up the lake first.  The usual hiker’s route starts from the south, in the flat fields beside a quiet Highway 4 at a tight bend in the road. 

The track heads due north, the destination just visible ahead above the trees.  There were puddles from the recent heavy rains.  There would be no chance of rain this week.  This was late summer at its best. 

Entering the forest, the track continued north, beside a swamp, with the destination directly ahead, hidden in the trees.  A direct approach up the cliffs would be possible I suppose, but the trail made a pleasant wide loop to the left, coming up onto the ridge from the north side.  The views all around were good, with plenty of open spaces and rock slabs on the summit, plus an (obligatory) inukshuk.

On my return journey, a jogger passed me on her way up the hill.  She never did catch up with me, for some reason. Her car was parked opposite mine at the trailhead.  Hopefully she got back safely.

Later in the day, I enjoyed one of the trails in the campsite, called Sandstone Island Trail.  This is not an island, but an elevated section of the land bordering the lake, composed of sandstone. 

There was plenty to enjoy along the 2.7 kilometre loop.  Highlight was a rock shelter, created by weathered sandstone along a cliff line.  Apparently various items have been found pointing to this being used as a shelter for thousands of years.  The plateau was farmed by a family of Irish immigrants, but there is nothing left of the farm, except for a ruined stone basement and the foundations for two gateposts.  It was a meagre existence at best, in this rocky Canadian Shield country.

The campsite was sparsely occupied.  It became totally silent at night, with no breeze and only the occasional vague sound of voices floating up from other campsites.  Before seven o’clock the sun had dipped below the trees surrounding my campsite, and the summer-like temperatures finally started to drop too.

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately.  

Statistics:

Total Distance:     9.8 km (hike)

Height Gain:         Say 300 ft.

Max. Elev.:           636 ft.

Time on Trail:       2 hrs. 42 mins.

Dep. car:             11.42 am

Summit:               12.54 pm

Ret. to  car:           2.24 pm

Temp:                  +25C

Weather:              Breezy, cloudless.

Hikers access to Blue Mountain

Track leading north to the ridge ahead

The approach follows a farm track through the fields

Here the trail enters the woods

Beside a swamp

Through beautiful woodlands 

Up onto the ridge

Scary encounter

But on closer inspection this guy might just be taking a "selfie"?

View north to Charleston Lake

West towards Marble Rock I think

View eastwards

Beside Charleston Lake

Plus 25C but a deserted beach!  Two swimmers had just left the water.

Home from home

Inside the "tardis"

Ragged Chutes

Sat. 12 September:  Ragged Chutes

Misty spray flying from the Ragged Chutes

This is the hike that never was! 

The rain was bucketing down as I arrived at Conlon Farm to meet my fellow hikers.  Not surprisingly, the hike had been cancelled.  Only the hike leader and one other colleague turned up.  But our leader had to drive up to the Ragged Chutes just in case one party turned up – they had arranged to meet there.  Not needing much excuse to go for a ride in the car, my colleague and I jumped into our leader’s vehicle to provide some company!

Arriving at Ragged Chutes, we saw no sign of the party involved.  But miraculously the rain had eased off.  So we hurriedly set out down the trail to take advantage of what would likely be a brief respite.  And so it was.  We had just enough time to hike down the track to the falls at the end of the lake.   As we returned to the car, the rain started again with renewed energy.  Just enough time to clear a few cobwebs, and then back into town for a not particularly well-earned coffee.

It was a good decision to cancel this hike.  The route is challenging with lots of slippery rocks, and on a wet day would be a recipe for a broken leg.  And I’ve had enough of dealing with broken legs for a while!

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately.  Also, see the Map at the end.

Statistics:

Total Distance:      4.7 km (hike)

Height Gain:          220 ft.

Max. Elev.:            974 ft.

Time on Trail:       1 hr. 22 mins.

Dep. car:              10.03 am

Chutes:                10.44 am

Ret. to  car:          11.25 am

Temp:                  +13C

Weather:              Overcast, sprinkles of rain.

Large wasp nest at start of trail - no sign of occupants

Green leafy lane leads to the Chutes

Turning off onto the track leading down to the Mississippi River

Ragged Chutes

My partners-in-crime
(guilty of stealing an unexpectedly dry hour from a drenchingly wet day)

Returning to the car just ahead of the next downpour

Algonquin

Tues. - Thurs. 8-10 September:  Algonquin

The Magic of the Algonquin:  sunset colors from my campsite

If you’ve been to the Algonquin, nobody needs to tell you what a special experience it is.  If you haven’t been, then put it on your list of places to visit. 

This was my first visit, although it had been on my list for many years.  This first time wasn’t exactly a wilderness experience.  Most people come here to find total isolation by canoeing out across a lake to a remote campsite.  By contrast, I chose the main Algonquin “corridor” of Highway 60, which crosses a southern arm of this huge Provincial Park.  Highway 60 is a very good start to anyone’s Algonquin experience.  It hosts the visitor centre, several nice campsites, a number of enjoyable looped trails, and an abandoned railway line – everything a passionate hiker might want.

Over three days I did my best not to waste any time!  I went on eight hikes, ranging in length from 1.6 to 9.1 km, and three bike rides, ranging from 5.6 km to 28.6 km.  Overall I travelled almost eighty kilometres.  I reached lofty lookouts, with views down onto tree-fringed lakes, and explored where the Ottawa to Georgian Bay railway line once strode high across a valley on a tall metal bridge, and across a lake on a trestle bridge, both now gone, but foundations still visible.

But I did more than this.  At the Visitor Centre I enjoyed the museum with lifelike exhibits of wolves and moose in their natural settings.   There were outrageously colorful oil paintings of Algonquin in the Fall at the Art Centre.  At Cache Lake I walked around the site of a luxury hotel of a century ago – the Highland Inn - now returned to forest.  I visited Canoe Lake, with its thriving canoe rental shop and opportunities for guided and unguided trips into the remotest corners of the park.  Several travellers were heading out across the lake.

Crazy as it sounds, there was a feel about this place which reminded me of the great Rocky Mountain Parks.  It wasn’t about the scenery (comparing the mountains of Banff with the lakes of Algonquin would be as hard as choosing one precious stone over another).  In special places like this, a person can really find – or lose – themselves. 

Here in the Algonquin you can get into a canoe and travel far into the remotest back-country imaginable.  And if you do it in October, with the crazy autumn colors at their peak, you might just discover a paradise that can be found nowhere else in Canada.

Just to wrap things up nicely, as I was driving home through beautiful rolling countryside, a little black bear cub raced across the road ahead of me.  I braked hard, expecting to see either another cub or the mother, but they must have been just ahead of it. 

Enjoy the pictures, which I have grouped into logical sections.

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately.

Statistics (summary):

Number of trips:          Ten (10)

Total Distance:           28.0 km (hike) + 50.8 km (bike) = 78.8 km

Height Gain (cum.):    1,680 ft.        

Time on Trail (cum.):  14 hrs. 15 mins.

Temp:                          Low 20s C   

Weather:                     Cloud and sun

At the Visitor Centre:

Don't miss the Algonquin Visitor Centre on Hwy 60

A realistic pack of wolves howling

You never know what to expect when visiting a Canadian Park

Happy moose (obviously no hunters)

Current list is kept of wildlife seen in the Park

Important warning

Lake of Two Rivers Campsite:

I may have left the Rockies behind - but not the bears!

Huge thunderstorms overnight left campsite puddles

Misty morning in camp

Much better day with an orange sunset

The Old Railway Bike Trail:

The old Ottawa, Arnprior and Parry Sound Railway makes for perfect biking

Well-signed trail

Beside the Madawaska River - view east

View west into a fold of hills - Madawaska River

Good maps along the way

Western end of bike trail - here the line spanned the river (see below)

The stone bases for this bridge still sit in the riverbed

Further west, the remains of the trestle across Cache Lake

What a sight it must have been

J.R. Booth - lumber baron and railway builder

Misty morning - heading east down the line

Rays of sun through the morning mist

New bridge - old stonework

Whitefish Lake - perfect reflections

Rock Lake - eastern end of the bike trail 

Cache Lake - Yesterday and Today:

The scene today beside Cache Lake

The (almost) exact same view back in 1919.
The grand Highland Inn to the right.
It closed down in 1957.

Work barge heads out across Cache Lake

Wealthy guests heading out to remote Bartlett Lodge

On the Trails:

Typical surface of an Algonquin hiking trail

Smoke Lake from Hardwood Lookout

Cache Lake from Track and Tower Trail 

Handy stairs leading to Skymount lookout ridge

Cache Lake from lookout viewpoint

Rock Lake from Booths Rock

Lonely canoe way out on the middle of Rock Lake

There is a Visitor Book at every trailhead:
today this trail was travelled by people from many Countries

A Doorway into the Wilderness:

This is what Algonquin is REALLY all about

Canoe Lake;  access point to the remote back-country

Nature - or not!

Definitely looks poisonous

Tree fungus

Tall "tree"....

...but attached to the ground by BOLTS???
This is a cell-phone tower (well disguised)

Cloudscapes above the Algonquin...

...and for my Australian and NZ friends
(note two small ripples at bottom left)

A foretaste of the glory that is now just 2-3 weeks around the corner.
That is the time to return to the incomparable Algonquin