The Passionate Hiker: On the K&P: North from Sharbot Lake (6)

Wed. 10 June: On the K&P: North from Sharbot Lake (6):
Shannons Lakes to Renfrew - The End of the Line.

Drama on the K&P

If there are any ghosts from the past to be found in Renfrew, then they probably came by train.

At one time this town was served by three different railway companies. First to arrive in 1872 was the Canada Central (CCR), which ran from Brockville on the St. Lawrence River to Mattawa on the Ottawa River. This was taken over by CP Rail, and was closed down only recently (2010). Then there was the Kingston and Pembroke (the K&P) which arrived in Renfrew in 1884 but only survived until the 1950’s. Finally in around 1893 or a little later, the Ottawa, Arnprior and Parry Sound Railway, or OA&PS (which was later amalgamated into CN Rail) arrived in Renfrew. This was at one time said to be the busiest railway in Canada, hauling timber out of Algonquin Park and apparently carrying almost 40% of all the grain being shipped from the Prairies. This line was closed in 1959.

The reason for all these railways was the huge timber business at the time, with wealthy timber barons ready to underwrite the expensive job of building railways to speed the transportation of their products to market. The boom didn’t last very long, before the railway companies went bankrupt and were merged into either CP or CN railway systems.

So there was plenty of evidence of disused railway lines to be discovered in Renfrew today. My goal was to complete my exploration of the K&P north from Sharbot Lake to its end here in Renfrew, and I did so today. The official K&P Trail actually ends at Renfrew Junction, on the outskirts of town, where the K&P and OA&PS tracks once crossed. But after completing the last stretch of the K&P, I then explored northwards from this point, following the path a short distance to where it met the CP line. This was truly the end of the K&P line. It never made it to Pembroke, as the CCR had beaten them to it.

Starting today’s adventures at Renfrew Junction, I biked south down the K&P to my end-point from last week’s trip, near Shannon’s Lakes. Based on the state of the trail north of Calabogie, I had expected an easy trip. But this last few kilometres was much rougher and I would have been better off with my mountain bike, not the narrower hybrid tires. But I made it through. There was open farmland leaving Renfrew, with the low forested line of Bonnechere Ridge to the northwest. Then further south I was once again in a wilderness of bogs and forest.

The turtles and deer seemed a little peeved to have their solitude disturbed by a puffing cyclist trying to make headway along a stony and damp gravel rail-bed. I welcomed the chance to stop to take some photos. By way of contrast, on my return northwards, I turned off the K&P at Ferguslea (Opeonga) Road, and made a speedy return to Renfrew Junction along good roads.

Continuing north from Renfrew Junction, I found that the line of the railway was very clear, a pathway through the trees. This quickly brought me to the CP line, whose tracks had only been lifted a couple of years ago. I followed the line westwards to an impressive bridge across the Bonnechere River. There were no barriers, just the bare wooden ties where the rails would have been anchored. It felt a bit exposed as I crossed high above the river. Here the K&P would have merged with the CCR line to Pembroke.

Today marks the completion of my journey from Sharbot Lake to Renfrew, a ninety kilometre magical thread, winding through bog, hill and forest, beside tree-lined lakes, past tiny communities which once depended on this line for their existence. It has been a special experience. Now it is time to start from the southern end of the K&P at Kingston, and complete the journey north to Sharbot Lake. The opportunities for new adventures seem never-ending.

Fascinating Fact: Did you know that Canada used to have broad gauge railway lines (as per the famous Great Western in England, built by Brunel, but not quite as broad as his 7ft gauge)? The Canada Central line which I mention above was originally built as a broad gauge line (5ft 6in) and was then converted to standard gauge (4ft 8½in) in 1880.

Note: single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics:

Total Distance: 28.6 km (bike)

Height Gain: 350 ft.

Time on Trail: 3 hrs. 30 mins.

Renfrew Jn: 7.23 am

End point trip (5): 9.03 am

Ferguslea Rd: 9.57 am

Renfrew Jn: 10.14 am

Bonnechere R Br: 10.32 am

Renfrew Jn: 10.53 am

Temp: +14C rising to +22C

Weather: Sunny, S. breeze