The Passionate Hiker: The Cataraqui Trail: (4): Crosby to Indian Lake Road

Sat. 30 May: The Cataraqui Trail: Crosby to Indian Lake Road

One of those impossible jigsaw puzzle pictures

It was a hot day for a long walk.

The temperature soon rose to 28C (82F). Luckily we had a strong wind in our faces to keep us cool, as our trail finally swung from south to south-west, now heading directly towards distant Strathcona.

There was so much to stop and admire today, that it must have been a frustrating job for our hike leader to keep the fifteen hikers in some sort of cohesive group. The team had been waiting patiently at the starting point on Highway 15 near Crosby as the advance team drove to Indian Lake Road to leave our cars there. We had been delayed at Chaffeys Lock on the Rideau Canal, where the cruise ship “Kawartha Voyageur” was passing through the lock on its way to Ottawa.

I never find canal locks and railway crossings boring places, and always hope that a boat (or a train) will delay my journey. This boat was tailor-made for the canal, fitting snugly into the lock, its hydraulic bow raised. A small crowd stood beside the lock admiring the scene as the water slowly lifted the boat. It would be “old hat” to the passengers, this being lock number thirteen on their journey from Kingston, with about twenty-five more ahead. Many of the passengers had disembarked for a stroll around this exquisitely beautiful corner of Eastern Ontario.

So our fellow hikers were more than ready to get going when we arrived at the starting point. The woods were filled with birdsong, none more clear than that of a rose-breasted grosbeak. Our knowledgeable hiking colleague aptly called this “a robin on steroids”, and a website described this bird as having “an extra sweetness to its song, as if the bird had operatic training”. Well put.

A little further along the trail, we crossed a bridge, and I was lucky to see a beaver swimming silently under-water . It saw me too, and decided to hide beneath the bridge. It is apparently not too common to see a beaver at this time of day. Some way further up the trail, we came to the remains of a gigantic beaver dam which had been taken apart, but which would have created a huge lake at one time.

Today’s nine kilometre section of the Cataraqui Trail passed through woodland, large areas of swamp, and beside a wide lake which, for some reason which was not clear to us, was called Little Lake. Mosquitos might have been an issue today, but thanks to the combination of wind and armies of swooping dragonflies, we were unmolested.

There was no doubt about the highlight of the journey, and possibly of the entire Cataraqui Trail. Behind Chaffey’s Lock, the line crosses high above the Rideau Canal on a magnificent iron bridge, built in 1912. From the parapet you can look northwards to the waters of Indian Lake and beyond, where the canal winds its way between wooded islands and headlands towards the summit of the system at Newboro Lock. A streamlined launch passed under the bridge, far below us, picking up speed as it headed northwards.

There is a good record of the construction of this bridge. Take the time to look at the pictures on this website:

http://www.railwaybob.com/ChaffeysLocks/01BridgeCrane01.html

Having arrived at our destination at Indian Lake Road, we were in no hurry to return home. We wandered into the Opinicon Lake Hotel grounds, an area of stunning beauty, above the waters of Opinicon Lake. This hotel has just recently been bought by a young couple with vision, and will soon reopen. Today people were busy reclaiming the front gardens, and serving ice cream to over-heated hikers! We then set out to discover a hidden cemetery, where early settlers and Irish canal workers were buried – a poignant place. While the life of a canal navvy was probably unspeakably hard and short, we formed the impression that the early settlers quickly came to love this area – and who could not?

Finally, as the wind brought more clouds to blot out the sun, we started home. Turning onto the Rideau Ferry Road, we passed through a black curtain of heavy rain, which gave my car a very thorough – and free – car wash. Perfect timing!

Note: single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics:

Total Distance: 9.0 km (hike)

Height Gain: 36 ft.

Time on Trail: 2 hrs. 31 mins.

Start (Hwy 15): 10.20 am

Chaffeys L Rd: 11.16 am

Marina Rd: 12.11 pm

High Bridge: 12.27 pm

Indian L Rd: 12.51 pm

Temp: +26C to +28 C

Weather: Mostly sunny, strong SW wind