The Passionate Hiker: May 2017

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

L’Escapade – The Getaway

Sun. 28 May: L’Escapade – The Getaway

The Getaway

Note: click on pictures for full size view.

I wonder if they were thinking of the villain Charlie Wilson when they named this hiking trail?

Charlie was one of the notorious Great Train Robbery gang, which in 1963 held up the Glasgow to London Royal Mail train, coshed the driver, and got away with £2.6 million. Charlie escaped to Canada, living here in the small Quebec town of Rigaud. All was well until, one Christmas, his wife phoned her parents back in London, which tipped off Scotland Yard. Charlie was jailed.

This all sounds like an improbable tale, as I stood at the foot of the gentle forested hillside, rising above the town. Today, Rigaud is properly known for its magnificent stone built College Bourget, and the hillside sanctuary to Notre Dame de Lourdes. Any fleeting memories of notorious train robbers have long since faded.

At the edge of a pleasant town-centre park, a sign proclaims the start of L’Escapade hiking trails. These wide forest pathways extend over 27 kilometres. I chose the steepest trail, La Cle de Bois, which in 2.7 km climbed 120m, or 393ft., before joining a wide network of trails higher up the mountain.

Mont Rigaud’s gentle summit is 228m, or 748ft. above sea level. It’s the highest point in this section of Canada bordered by the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers, until you reach Calabogie Peaks, 240 km west of here, which rise to 232m (761ft).

It was just a little frustrating to find that these trails seemed to avoid both the summit, and any viewpoint, at least on this side of the mountain. The vista from the top would be superb, with the Ottawa River forming the Lac des Deux Montagnes, and the hills of Quebec behind. Further along the hillsides is a small ski resort, and above that stands a cross on one of the rounded summits. But no sign as to how to get there.

Nevertheless, it was a good workout. I had to turn around after about four kilometres, returning down the rough rocky trail, sometimes quite steep, back to the sleepy town.

I saw few other people on the trail. It felt amazingly peaceful for a Sunday afternoon. Getaway is very a good description. Even when you haven’t robbed a train.

An extensive system of trails on Mont Rigaud

Gentle wooded slopes rising to the hazy summit at 228m (748ft.)

A devoutly Catholic Quebec town

I can smell these lilacs

Proud parents

Now that's a map!

In the forest

Magnificent College Bourget

Here the Ottawa River joins the St. Lawrence.
See location of Rigaud on the left of this map

The Hudson-Oka ferry

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

The Settlers Trek: reflections

17 May: The Settlers Trek: reflections

May 2017: Celebrating the first anniversary of the Settlers Trek

Note: click on pictures for full size view.

Exactly one year ago this week, the first Scottish settlers made the long journey from Brockville to Perth, where they started their new lives. Or so it may have appeared to any passing motorists!

Last year, to celebrate the 200^th anniversary of the settlement of Perth, a group of hikers, clad in 1816 clothing, and supported by teams of horses and wagons, travelled roughly the same route as the original settlers, taking six days to complete the almost 100 km journey.

This event, known as the Settlers Trek, caused quite a stir along the route. Many people came out to watch this curious parade as it gradually made its way through the countryside. At the starting point in Brockville, the settlers gathered in front of the impressive Court House, and were given a proper send-off from the First Presbyterian Church. Six days later, in Perth, at the Tay River basin, large crowds gathered to cheer as the settlers received their tickets for 100 acres of free land.

For the trekkers, it was a special experience. We played our parts so well that, when we arrived in Perth and received our settlement tickets, we almost felt that this free land was OUR land.

Today I retraced our route, stopping in each of the villages along the way, where the welcome mat had been laid out in such grand fashion: Lyn, Athens, Delta, Portland, Rideau Ferry. At each of these places we had spent a night on the road. The citizens welcomed us with hearty meals, entertainment, visits to their local museums, a floor to sleep on or a campsite to pitch our tents. Speeches were given, and lasting friendships made.

Perhaps for this author, playing the role of military emigrant Thomas Barber from Dumfries-shire, the highlight was the Old Stone Mill at Delta, which would have been standing much as it does today, back in 1816 when the original settlers came this way. If only walls could speak.

Equally moving was the finale in Perth, where the canal basin was crowded with citizens and schoolkids. Here we were passing the torch of history on to the next generations. Will they keep it alive for their children and grandchildren? I am sure that they will.

These photos, taken today, are a faint echo of the excitement of last year’s trek. On this sunny spring afternoon, the communities were strangely quiet - perhaps waiting for the next group of settlers to pass by? And what a welcome these generous citizens would give to the weary, yet hopeful, traveller!