The Cataraqui Trail: (4): Crosby to Indian Lake Road

Sat. 30 May:  The Cataraqui Trail:  Crosby to Indian Lake Road

One of those impossible jigsaw puzzle pictures

It was a hot day for a long walk. 

The temperature soon rose to 28C (82F).  Luckily we had a strong wind in our faces to keep us cool, as our trail finally swung from south to south-west, now heading directly towards distant Strathcona.

There was so much to stop and admire today, that it must have been a frustrating job for our hike leader to keep the fifteen hikers in some sort of cohesive group.  The team had been waiting patiently at the starting point on Highway 15 near Crosby as the advance team drove to Indian Lake Road to leave our cars there.  We had been delayed at Chaffeys Lock on the Rideau Canal, where the cruise ship “Kawartha Voyageur” was passing through the lock on its way to Ottawa. 

I never find canal locks and railway crossings boring places, and always hope that a boat (or a train) will delay my journey.  This boat was tailor-made for the canal, fitting snugly into the lock, its hydraulic bow raised.  A small crowd stood beside the lock admiring the scene as the water slowly lifted the boat.  It would be “old hat” to the passengers, this being lock number thirteen on their journey from Kingston, with about twenty-five more ahead.  Many of the passengers had disembarked for a stroll around this exquisitely beautiful corner of Eastern Ontario.

So our fellow hikers were more than ready to get going when we arrived at the starting point.  The woods were filled with birdsong, none more clear than that of a rose-breasted grosbeak.  Our knowledgeable hiking colleague aptly called this “a robin on steroids”, and a website described this bird as having “an extra sweetness to its  song, as if the bird had operatic training”.  Well put.

A little further along the trail, we crossed a bridge, and I was lucky to see a beaver swimming silently under-water .  It saw me too, and decided to hide beneath the bridge.  It is apparently not too common to see a beaver at this time of day.  Some way further up the trail, we came to the remains of a gigantic beaver dam which had been taken apart, but which would have created a huge lake at one time.

Today’s nine kilometre section of the Cataraqui Trail passed through woodland,  large areas of swamp, and beside a wide lake which, for some reason which was not clear to us, was called  Little Lake.  Mosquitos might have been an issue today, but thanks to the combination of wind and armies of swooping dragonflies, we were unmolested.

There was no doubt about the highlight of the journey, and possibly of the entire Cataraqui Trail. Behind Chaffey’s Lock, the line crosses high above the Rideau Canal on a magnificent iron bridge, built in 1912.  From the parapet you can look northwards to the waters of Indian Lake and beyond, where the canal winds its way between wooded islands and headlands towards the summit of the system at Newboro Lock.  A streamlined launch passed under the bridge, far below us, picking up speed as it headed northwards. 

There is a good record of the construction of this bridge.  Take the time to look at the pictures on this website:

http://www.railwaybob.com/ChaffeysLocks/01BridgeCrane01.html

Having arrived at our destination at Indian Lake Road, we were in no hurry to return home.  We wandered into the Opinicon Lake Hotel grounds, an area of stunning beauty, above the waters of Opinicon Lake.  This hotel has just recently been bought by a young couple with vision, and will soon reopen.  Today people were busy reclaiming the front gardens, and serving ice cream to over-heated hikers!  We then set out to discover a hidden cemetery, where early settlers and Irish canal workers were buried – a poignant place.  While the life of a canal navvy was probably unspeakably hard and short, we formed the impression that the early settlers quickly came to love this area – and who could not?

Finally, as the wind brought more clouds to blot out the sun, we started home.  Turning onto the Rideau Ferry Road, we passed through a black curtain of heavy rain, which gave my car a very thorough – and free – car wash. Perfect timing!

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics:

Total Distance:      9.0 km (hike)

Height Gain:          36 ft.

Time on Trail:       2 hrs. 31 mins.

Start (Hwy 15):     10.20 am

Chaffeys L Rd:     11.16 am

Marina Rd:           12.11 pm

High Bridge:         12.27 pm

Indian L Rd:          12.51 pm

Temp:            +26C to +28 C

Weather:        Mostly sunny, strong SW wind

The Kawartha Voyageur at Chaffeys Lock - Rideau Canal

Designed to fit the locks with no room to spare

Lowers its bow as it exits the lock - on its way to Ottawa

"Robin on steroids" - the rose-breasted  grosbeak

Heading out onto the swamp

I saw a beaver swimming under-water beneath this bridge

Now 35 km from Smiths Falls

Little Lake...

...which seems very large for such a small name

Crossing the road to Chaffeys Lock,
about one third of the way along today's route

Lots of swampland

An even more impossible jigsaw!

Rare sign of the days of rail - an old electrical junction box

So much to see along the way

Magnificent rail bridge over the Rideau Canal at Chaffeys Lock - built 1912...

...and a highlight of the Cataraqui Trail...

... with views north to Indian Lake and the route of the Rideau Canal

Boat House - or House Boat?

Enjoying an ice cream at the Opinicon Resort Hotel (soon to reopen)

Poignant cemetery at Chaffeys Lock...

...and a surprising plaque!

On the K&P: North from Sharbot Lake (3)

Tues. 26 May:  On the K&P:  North from Sharbot Lake (3): 
Hwy 509 north of Snow Road Station to 5 km north of Lavant Station

On the road to Calabogie

So much for railway lines being flat!  Today I climbed 348 feet.  Along the way I passed the summit of this section of line between Sharbot Lake and Calabogie Lake, at 274m (899ft) above sea level.

This may not sound a lot, but on a mountain bike, it meant a steady slow grind uphill for about half the trip, and much easier and faster pedalling for the other half.  Since I was returning to my starting point, this was repeated in the opposite direction.

This part of the K&P line started in a westerly direction, passing through a wooded glen, with a stream beside the line and a rock cutting above.  I climbed down the bank where the stream crossed under the path, to take a look at the small bridge.  The date of 1912 on the concrete told me that this was an early structure.  So many were replaced in the 1920’s and later.

The line then curved northwards and headed out across a large swamp.  There were puddles but this just made it more fun.  Don’t try bringing a hybrid bike down this route.  You need the mountain bike.  The line was gradually climbing towards the summit of the line, about 600 metres north of Wilbur Road.  From here, at a short rock cutting, I could feel the gradient dropping away.  It would fall gradually all the way to my turning point just over 5 kilometres north of Lavant Station.

Like all the stations so far seen, with the exception of Clarendon Road Station, there was no remaining structure, just a wide point in the trail.  Lavant Station is a rare access point along this remote section of line.

As I continued north, I crossed more large swamps and passed beneath a couple of large high voltage power lines.  In a pretty valley I met a man in a truck and we had a good chat about the K&P line.  He owned several pieces of land beside the line, and had put in a lot of effort to improve the surface along this stretch.  He wished that more people would use the line and he had plans of establishing a couple of overnight stopping places along the way to encourage more travellers.

I continued down the line until I came to the south branch of the Clyde River, here just a narrow tumbling stream, where the line ran through a low rock cutting.  Here I turned around.

Having passed the summit north of Wilbur Road, I picked up steam and made fast work of the return journey.   Just as I was driving back onto the highway, two motor bikes came down the trail.  I might have given them a run for their money on the last stretch. 

The drive home took me through a rural paradise, through Snow Road, Elphin, McDonalds Corners and Fallbrook.  I had made good progress on my northward journey today.  

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics:

Total Distance:      30.4 km (mtn. bike)

Height Gain:          348 ft.

Time on Trail:        3 hrs. 38 mins.

Hwy. 509:              7.52 am

Wilbur Rd:             8.48 am

Lavant Stn:            9.01 am

Folger Rd:             9.31 am

S. Clyde R:           9.49 am

Lavant Stn:         10.33 am

Wilbur Rd:          10.54 am

Ret. to car:         11.30 am

Temp:                 +19C rising to +25C

Weather:             Sunny, humid, SW wind

Heading west away from Hwy 509,  N. of Snow Road Station

Old sign

Old railway bridge, built 1912

Line curves to the north

One of many large swamps

Mountain biking paradise

At Lavant Station

Downhill towards the distant Clyde River

Old  barn across the valley from Folger village

End of my trip today, about 5 km north of  Lavant Station

First meeting with the Clyde River

A sky-full of wires

Graham Lake

K&P Trail sign at Lavant Station

Back at Lavant Station - a wide spot on the trail

Cloudscape

Racing down gradient back to the start

Swamp scene

Ant World

Sun. 24 May:  Frontenac Provincial Park:  Tetsmine Lake Loop

Rugged routes to land-locked lakes

As we walked down the trail from Kingsford Dam towards the Tetsmine Lake Loop, we met a young family returning from an overnight camp.  The father was carrying an enormous roll of bedding on his back.

They were not the only ones carrying heavy loads.  At our lakeside “elevenses” stop, on a rock, ants were at work.  They were trying to move a large worm but were having some difficulty with the task.  If only we could have understood ant language.  One of them must have been issuing orders as they scurried around, trying to prop up the worm with small stones, and pushing its head around.  Reinforcements were called for, and at last progress was made.  We stood there for several minutes in fascination.  As we continued down the trail, we were a little more careful not to step on any ants - if we could help it!

It was a perfect day for a hike in the Frontenac Park wilderness.  Our route took us clockwise around the loop.  On my last visit, we had travelled the other way round, and it had been early November, so today’s journey was a completely new experience.  There were delicate red columbines on show as the trilliums were finally fading.  We saw wild strawberry flowers, and several areas of poison ivy.

There were only four of us today, and our hike leader set a perfect pace.  This trail always has something interesting around the next corner – the mine, surrounded by glittering mica, several lakes, bridges and boardwalks, and plenty of changes in elevation to keep the heart rate up.

After a nice lunch stop above Clearwater Lake, we seemed to drop down the hillsides all the way back to the start.  We detoured to the campsite beside McNally Bay on Kingsford Lake to enjoy the sight of the choppy waters, stirred up by the strong, warm southwest wind. 

Of course, at our feet were the ants, busily moving supplies from the shoreline back to their supply base.  We were not the only ones who had earned a rest.  It must be exhausting being an ant.

Note:  single-click on the first picture above to scroll through the photos separately

Statistics:

Total Distance:      11.2 km (hike)

Height Gain:          Say 500 ft.

Time on Trail:       4 hrs. 00 mins.

Start (Dam):           9.48 am

Mine site:             10.24 am

Tetsmine L:          11.15 am

Clearwater L:       12.24 pm

Ret. to car:             1.48 pm

Temp:            +15C rising to +24 C

Weather:        Sunny, SW wind

Just sun hats for us

The mine, surrounded by piles of glittering mica

Well-signposted trails

Beautiful woodland trails

A scenic corner

Our "elevenses" stop

Ant World

Bridge leads to a short steep uphill section

Tetsmine Lake

Woodland ridge

Dried lake

Low water levels

A favourite rock

Lunch beside Clearwater Lake

Crossing the swamp

Bright sunshine lights up the leaves

Campsite beside McNally Bay

Impressive colour scheme

Returning to the start at Kingsford Dam

Our route through the rugged wooded terrain